‘Fried’, ‘Chicken’ and ‘Sandwich’: three alluring enough words on their own; together, they promise pure unbridled pleasure. And frankly, that’s the only kind of pleasure I’m interested in. This is a treat that delivers in so many ways: the crunch of the coating; the tender, juicy, marinated meat; the spice that runs through both. Yes, it does involve deep-frying, which sounds stressful I know, but with only one chicken thigh to fry, it’s surprisingly unflustering. It’s up to you whether you eat this in a burger bun or bread: there are arguments to be made for either. If going for a burger bun, then make sure it’s a good one. And if it’s bread you want, you can’t do better than the Old-Fashioned Sandwich Loaf.